Tony Mclane and I climbed this line over two days, during a short dry spell in early August, 2020. We spent the night on a small bevy ledge about 200m up, and again at the Summit. We Decended the NW ridge on the 6th of August.
The Hammer and the Dance- 5.11rx, 700m
Gear:
Standard double rack
Set of wires
Three beaks, Hammer
Start up a low 5th class chimney - about 3 pitches
Pitch 1- Face climbing with very little pro. (Beaks necessary) 5.10+X
Pitch 2- Committing face climbing leads to a rightward traverse into a corner. 10-R
Bivy Ledge
Pitch 3- Step left to enter a steep crack system. 10+, 60m
Pitch 4- Difficult stemming moves off the belay lead into a corner. Climb the corner as it turns into a choosy pillar. Sling the pillar and make thin face moves to enter into a crack. Climb up a right facing corner to reach an extremely choosy ledge. Traverse rightward into a corner and make a belay atop a stance. 11-R, 60m.
Pitch 5- Climb easy cracks to reach a technical traverse over clean rock 11- 35m
Pitch 6- Follow easy terrain up, 5.6, 45m
Pitch 7- Traverse left along ramps of extremely loose rock, aiming for the free standing tower. 5.6, 65m
Pitch 8- Easy chimney leads to belay stance behind the tower. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch 9- Crux 1. A few moves of down climbing lead to a tricky leftward traverse. Place a .5 in the pegmatite band. Enter a corner with very loose rock and up through an overhang. Make a belay on a shoulder. 5.11b/c rx, 50m.
Pitch 10- Unprotected face climbing leads to an easy off width. 5.10- x, 30m
Pitch 11- The Red Band. Climb through the worst rock on the mountain, following an obvious weakness to gain the ridge 5.9 X, 30m
Pitch 12- An easy ridge leads to a pillar. Move left around the pillar and into a corner. 4th class, 45m
Pitch 13- A tricky face move leads to moderate ramps. Make a belay soon. 15m, 5.9
Pitch 14- Crux 2. The Limestone Band. Traverse leftward by use of a delicate flake. When the flake ends, use thin edges to traverse in to an obtuse corner. Climb the corner, careful about pulling off large blocks. Climb the steep face and make a belay just below the large ledge. 11b Runout! 40m
Pitch 15- Traverse leftward across a large shale ledge till the rock looks easy to climb upward and make a belay. 3rd class, 30m
Pitch 16- Climb up Easy terrain and make a belay. 5.7, 20m
Pitch 17- Trend leftward and make a belay in the shale bands, 4th class, 25m
Pitch 18- Trend up and Left to make a belay below a chimney, 4th class, 30m
Pitch 19- Climb through the chimney and up steep rock. 5.9 R, 5.7, 40m
Pitch 20- Step left and climb 45m of Shale to belay below a steep corner.
Pitch 21- A lose corner leads to a belay, 5.9, 25m.
Pitch 22- Continue up loose terrain to reach the summit ridge, 5.6, 25m.
Follow easy ridge to the summit!
Decent: NW ridge.
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